Chitra Srikrishna Carnatic Musician, Writer, Mom

12May/09N/A0

The mystic Chera king, Kulasekhara Alwar

My interest in Vaishnavite traditions and Divya Prabandhams grew as I prepared for my CD recording (see main page). My article on Kulasekhara Alwar, the philosopher-king was published in the Sunday Herald a few weeks back. I've posted the article here for your convenience.
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The Mystic Chera King

“I may appear crazy to others but it is they who are really crazy. Yes! I am madly in love with my Lord!' (in Tamil "Peyarai yenakku yaavarum yaanum oru peyanai evarkkum idhu pesi yen").
Were these the words of a madman?  These words form one of the 105 quatrains (pasurams) of Kulasekhara Alwar's Perumal Tirumozhi. that speak of his love for Lord Ranganatha of Srirangam. Kulasekhara, was a Chera king who ruled over present-day Kerala in the 9th century AD.
Beginning in the 7th century, the Bhakti movement centered around Lord Vishnu saw a resurgence in South India. Twelve poets, collectively called the Alwars, over the span of two centuries, created an exquisite collection of hymns, collectively called the “Divya Prabhandham.” These hymns are known for their exquisite lyrical content and high emotive appeal. Allegorical and set in first person, the hymns convey the poets' intense feeling of bhakthi towards the Lord.
The ninth of the twelve alwars, Kulasekhara Alwar, whilst still engaged in matters of state, showed great interest in spirituality. Several tales, possibly apocryphal, talk of his intense love for his Lord. Once when listening to a narration of the Ramayana at court the king, was so caught up with the story that in an emotional outburst, ordered his troops to prepare for the battle against Ravana! Only when the narrator brought the story to an end with Rama's victory did the king heave a sigh of relief.
Another story speaks of how his single-minded focus on serving Lord Vishnu alarmed his courtiers, who felt he was ignoring royal matters. In an atttempt to discredit the priests that the king patronized, they charged the priests of stealing the temple jewels. The king in an effort to disprove their suspicions, declared that he would place his hand in a pot of poisonous snakes. "If I am bitten, then what you say would be true. If my faith in the priests of Vishnu is justified, I will not be harmed." It goes on to say how the king was unscathed, after subjecting himself to this test with a pot of poisonous snakes.
Kulasekara eventually renounced his royal responsibilities and proceeded to Srirangam, the bastion of Vaishnavism. It was here that he composed his most famous work the Mukundamala (“garland of hymns for Mukunda") and parts of the Perumal Tirumozhi. The latter part of his life was largely spent in Tirupati. The threshold at the sanctum sanctorum of the Lord Balaji Temple in Tirupati is known as the "Kulasekhara padi" - a tribute to this philosopher king's desire to serve the Lord, if only as an inanimate object in his temple! 
Though Kulasekhara Alwar is believed to have died young, before he reached his 30th birthday, he lives on in the regular chanting of his Perumal Thirumozhi in temples throughout South India. In the first week of March, this mystic king's birth anniversary, under the Punar Poosam star,  is being celebrated by the Hindu Vaishnavite community all over the world.

27Jan/09N/A0

A giant shopping mall

Twin Towers, KL, Malaysia
Image by tuis via Flickr

Summer of 2008 - We stopped in Kaula Lumpur, Malaysia on our way back home. I had a concert lined up at a cultural organization there. On our first day we were off to Batu Caves, the famed limestone caves which was also a temple for Subramanya. Climbing 272 steps (phew!) only made me realize I was terribly out of shape.

The traffic jams and noise levels in KL reminded me of Bangalore. The monorail had me wondering when the Metro line was going to come up back home. Standing on the upper level (open for visitors) at Petronas towers we got an aerial view of the city - a lush rainforest surrounded by a concrete jungle. The contrast couldn't have been sharper. KL is one giant shopping mall. My friends insisted that a trip to Berjaya Times Square was a must but once there, I was bewildered by the plethora of choices. My husband put on a valiant smile (he detests shopping in malls) while I had a hard time controlling my budget!

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21Jan/09N/A0

Season Bites

Image for the :en:Purandara Dasa page.
Image via Wikipedia

Its mid-December and I am in Chennai, the heartland of carnatic music. The Margazhi Mahotsavam or Season, as locals call it, is in full swing. A monthful of classical music, dance and lecture-demonstrations broken only by bouts of canteen hopping – but more on that later. A casual visitor to Chennai could have easily mistaken it for election season.  Giant, larger-than-life, billboards of Kancheepuram wrapped musicians and star like portraits on vernacular magazine covers greet me everywhere I go.

As a musician and a rasika, I am overwhelmed by the plethora of concerts on offer. While season regulars have fine-tuned to an art, their concert attendance with advance planning, I prefer to play it by ear. At the heart of their organizational secret is a small indescript booklet. It lists all 2000+ concerts held across the city during the festival, cross referenced by venues and artistes. My first task upon landing in Chennai usually is to relieve my mother of her copy of this nifty booklet. For the Musically Challenged, yet another booklet lists every Carnatic song alphabetically with its raga, tala and composer - so upon hearing the first line, the MC can quickly rustle through the book to find the details.

Sabha-hoppers at the festival are the most adventurous lot . A peep into one hall for an earful of Raga Mohanam and they’re off to another hall to catch the latter part of a Tyagaraja kriti. I marvel at their memory and unflagging enthusiasm to carry it off. Then there are the quiet listeners who vigorously nod their heads in murmured appreciation and break into an occasional sabhash. Disapproving glares are their response when there’s a stage whisper or a shuffling of feet among the audience. Yet another kind of listeners are blessed with a 360° rotating neck. They greet long-lost friends and family with barely suppressed glee, unfailingly spotting them at far corners of the halls, oblivious to what's happening on stage. I am particularly wary of the snoozers who nod off in the air-conditioned halls and unwittingly match the musician's notes in the higher octaves. The mridangam thani when the percussion plays his solo recital, is often a restroom break. Such a mass exodus from the hall in the midst of a performance would be inconceivable in opera or concerts halls elsewhere in the world. To make matters worse the Season finds cell phones occasionally adding its plaintive tones to the instruments on stage.  Whatever happened to silent mode?

A day at the season begins early. Morning programs feature seminars and lecture-demonstrations on various topics of classical music and draw huge crowds. When Nedunuri Krishnamoorthy, a stalwart in the field, gives a presentation on Annamacharya kritis he is accompanied by his disciples, the popular Malladi Brothers. The hall fills up rapidly and latecomers stand for nearly 90 minutes to listen to the maestro perform. Even the whiff of vadas and poori bhaji emanating from the canteen doesn't tempt the glued audience. I could play the enthralled listener having gorged myself on an early morning idli and vada at the sabha canteen. The Season is a fulfilling experience in more ways more than just musical!

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17Oct/08N/A0

My own Malgudi….

The Hoysala temple at the Sanagama
Image via Wikipedia

As we get off the train at Bhadravati railway station, still groggy eyed, my husband and I trail behind our friends who seem to be the local experts. It's pitch dark on a foggy morning and I'm shivering even in my sweater. I follow the others who confidently walk over train tracks to reach the platform. Despite my fears we're not run over by any oncoming train at this time. When we get out of the tiny railway station and into auto-rickshaws to head towards our hotel, I get my first look of the town. It's quiet on the streets with barely any signs of activity. I am reminded of RK Narayan's Malgudi - a sleepy town with dusty roads and little boys running amok in shorts and men in dhotis huddling together in a small cafe drinking coffee. The sound of a buffalo snorting in the background and the faint cry of bicycle horns as the milk and newspaper delivery boys are dashing through the streets completes the picture.

On reaching the hotel we are greeted by a surly youth who is impatient to hand over our room key. After a quick breakfast around the corner where I'm conscious of the furtive looks thrown our way by other diners (do we have a label that reads city slickers) my husband and I decide to explore the town. "You can check out the Hunne Godda, a hillock with a small temple that serves as a popular picnic spot", recommend our friends. "The Lakshmi Narasimha temple is also very ancient...it's in the old town". When my husband looks a bit bemused, the waiter adds his two cents. "You mustn't miss Koodli -this is where the Tunga and Bhadra rivers meet, very sacred spot!" We decide to visit the old town that's a few blocks away.

Our auto rickshaw driver begins his monologue as soon as we set off, rattling off the town's history and the tourist spots in neighbouring towns. In less than 10 minutes we are at the gates of a huge compound with a temple inside that looks incongruent in this part of town amidst old homes and narrow lanes. The sign at the gate mentions that the temple is being maintained by the archeological department of the state. There is a deserted look at the temple and we seem to be the only ones in this area. My husband is in no hurry to go inside and is admiring the architectural beauty of the temple. The lathe-turned pillars are ornamental and unique to the Hoysala school of architecture. As I admire the detailed attention given to the contours of the sculptures, my husband is trying to gauge how old the temple structure is. The giant Ganesha idol in front of the temple near the steps catches my eye. "Banni, banni!" The priest beckons to me - he is all smiles. I hurry inside eager to see the main deity of the temple. The idol is magnificent - the energetic eyes, the fierce look and the leonine features on the face, the strong contours of the body inspires fear, wonder, and humility all at the same time. My feet are stuck to the ground as the priest completes his routine. It's almost as if time stands still and I am caught in a maelstrom of emotions. "Let's head back, you need to rest before the concert." My husband is already ambling towards the exit. Later that evening as we head outside town vast stretches of farmlands greet us. There's a hint of rain and I welcome the fresh breeze. Suddenly I spot a temple in the midst of a field. There's a giant statue of saint Tyagaraja in the open hall before the temple. I am here to celebrate his music, and highlight the musical genius of this prolific composer who left such a rich legacy in the world of classical music. As I listen to the twitter of birds in the background, and feel the gentle breeze blowing across the fields, I'm inspired by my surrealistic surroundings and start singing.

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8Jul/08N/A0

Road Rage

[this article appeared in today's Hindu Metro Plus Bangalore]

With nearly one lakh people killed annually, India has earned a needless record as the country with the second highest road accident rate according to the World Road Statistics 2007 data. This was brought home to me when I opened my door this morning and found my 13-year old standing there sobbing her heart out. I panicked; certain, that something horrible had happened to her. As indeed, it had. A motorcycle had hit the poor child after she finished her basketball camp. Just as she had stepped off the pavement to cross the road and join her father waiting across the street, a motorcycle had come racing around the corner and hit her on her arm. Fortunately, she had fallen on the side way and had not been run over.

My daughter, even as she sobbed, insisted that she had looked both ways before crossing the road. She had definitely not anticipated a speeding maniac appearing out of the blue – and at that a family man with a wife and child riding pillion! The rider stopped just for a second and rudely claimed it was my daughter’s fault before driving off, without even checking if she was okay!

This incident only highlights one of the biggest dangers on our roads. Indian drivers seem incapable of following road rules, even the most rudimentary ones intended to prevent deaths. Speeding appears to be the norm with most drivers. Everyone is in a hurry – motorcyclists driving on the pavement, buses overtaking other buses and people going the wrong way even on one ways. There is no dearth of rules but utter absence of enforcement. As the statistics show, we are clearly not prepared to follow the rules on our own.

The fact that most Indians overseas whether in the Middle East, Singapore or elsewhere are law abiding and safe drivers clearly indicates it’s a matter of enforcement rather than a national shortcoming. I wouldn’t want anyone else’s child to go through the harrowing experience mine did.

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